Finaliste du prix LVMH cette année avec son label A-Cold-Wall* (souvent réduit à l'appellation ACW*) fondé en 2015, Samuel Ross poursuit son style avec sa vision à la fois chic et conceptuelle de la mode streetwear. Ancien bras droit de Virgil Abloh (fondateur de la marque Off-White et nouveau directeur artistique des collections masculines de Louis Vuitton), le créateur anglais appartient à la nouvelle génération de créateurs touche-à-tout (musique, architecture...) qui bousculent les codes du prê-à-porter. S'il fait ici la part belle à une mode urbaine et conceptuelle, celle-ci ne vire pas gadget pour autant. Ici ce sont les éléments fonctionnels qui créent les volumes. Ainsi s'enchainent des gilets à plusieurs pans unis par des mousquetons, des parkas à multiples coulisses favorisant tantôt une silhouette loose tantot à la taille resserrée, des joggings à zips qui jouent l'asymétrie ou la découpe, ou des hoodies sanglés très structurés ... Même les poches plaquées des treillis se gonflent via des valves transparentes - apparentes - apportant une nouvelle dynamique à la silhouette. Le tout rehaussé par un jeu de proportions entre tops croppés - en plexiglass - et manteaux légers oversize. Et les quelques silhouettes féminines d'afficher les mêmes critères. S'il faut reconnaître la qualité d'exécution des pièces et le bon dosage de créativité de cette mode streetwear, on est plus sceptique devant la mise en scène - l'accueil par une armée de zombies. Ici le vêtement buzz plus que la toile de fond. Conformément à la loi Informatique et Liberté n° 78-17 du 6 janvier 1978 relative à l'informatique, aux fichiers et aux libertés, nous nous engageons à informer les personnes qui fournissent des données nominatives sur notre site de leurs droits, notamment de leur droit d'accès et de rectification sur ces données nominatives. Nous nous engageons à prendre toutes précautions afin de préserver la sécurité de ces informations et notamment empêcher qu'elles ne soient déformées, endommagées ou communiquées à des tiers.

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Street style à la Fashion Week automne-hiver 2018-2019 de New York Crédit photo : Sandra Semburg


01.01.1970
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